Part 1 - Austria, Slovenia, Croatia

The journey starts just outside the former Yugoslavia. We are in Bleiburg in Austria, just over the border from Slovenia.
Bleiburg is a place and a name that still stirs emotion and controversy, especially in Croatia. Thousand died here at the end of the Second World War, victims of Tito’s victorious communist, Partisan forces.
Many, but not all, were Croats, mostly men who had served in the forces of Croatia’s quisling Ustasha regime. Some were royalist Serbs from so-called Chetnik forces. Miljenko and Marko examine the monument inscribed with the words: “Croatian mothers mourn and cry….”
The Yugo is approaching the border. It is not just the frontier between Slovenia and Croatia but also, for now, the EU’s external border. The two of them say that they are about to enter the so-called “Western Balkans”.
The "Western Balkans" are a part of the continent completely surrounded by the EU, but nevertheless remaining outside of it. Still, Croatia is one step from becoming a member, even more now that it has settled its border dispute with EU neighbourg Slovenia.

Now in Croatia, Miljenko and Marko are driving towards Kumrovec, Josip Broz Tito’s birthplace. Is it today a tourist attraction or a pilgrimage site for those who still believe in Tito’s cult?
Formerly famous just as the birthplace of the “Father of the Nation”, Kumrovec now seems to court the market for its Zagorje region “ethno-tourism”… They visit the house where Tito was born.

In front of Tito's statue Antun Augustincic.
They sit at a table in the “Zelenjak” restaurant which specialises in the food Tito loved best.
They order Tito's favorite meal: polenta with bacon, baked turkey with mlinci, pork and blood sausages, Kutjevo and Cvicek wine.

Marko and Miljenko walk towards the Jasenovac concentration camp memorial.
Inside Jasenovac concentration camp memorial.

Jasenovac's concentration camp wall of victims.
Leaving Jasenovac Memorial.
In Zagreb, Marko and Miljenko meet Croatian President Stipe Mesic. They want to ask Mesic about his recent comment: “Nobody who was in Jasenovac was responsible for the victims in Bleiburg, but many who were in Bleiburg were guilty of the crimes committed in Jasenovac.”

Discussion goes over Mesic opposing historical revisionism and the rehabilitation of Ustashi ideology. They also discuss politics and history, reconciliation whithin Croatia and with the neighbours.

Part 2 - Croatia (Vukovar), Bosnia (Brcko)

Part 3 - Serbia (Belgrade, Presevo)

Part 4 - Macedonia (Skopje, Pelince)

Portraits along the road

Driving the Yugo

Documentary

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